You've spoken out against the recent bans on foie gras, but you're also opposed to animal cruelty in general. Would you support banning other practices that are regarded as cruel, like those practiced by the industrial poultry industry?

No. It would be nice to think that people know the difference between a crap chicken and a good chicken. If you can afford a good-quality free-range chicken, it's nice that you have options. A lot of people in the world can't afford that.

I like the idea that we could live in an agrarian wonderland, where there are heritage animals wandering freely and making delicious farm-fresh eggs, but that ain't gonna happen; there are too many hungry people in the world.

I love Whole Foods talking about lobster and clam cruelty, when people are being fucked to death, kidnapped, starved, bombed. [The grocery chain recently stopped selling some live shellfish on the grounds that the practice is inhumane.] There is so much cruelty to humans -- so much cruelty to animals -- in this world. And people are worried about a fucking mollusk. Unbelievable.

Are you just as skeptical about organic products, or the movement to eat locally grown food?

No, I think that's good. I admire people who want to cook only regional; any time you focus on quality, I think that's good.

Just don't pretend that we can all do that, or that it's not going to be expensive. To eat like our peasant ancestors, the simple things that they took for granted -- only the rich will be able to afford those things.


Now I'm really wishing I had gone to see Anthony Bourdain when he was in town. In slightly other news, I made a pretty good strawberry-rhubarb struedel tonight. Mmm.
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